Imagine it’s winter, and you’re sitting in the sun, enjoying a cozy cup of chai while wrapped in
a comfy Kullu shawl. Many people love this simple joy during the winter season, especially in
Himachali homes. For Pahadis, winters and shawls just go together naturally. But Kullu
shawls are more than just clothes, they encapsulate a rich tapestry of history, culture, and an
intriguing narrative detailing their evolution to their present form.
The Kullu region experiences a cool climate for a significant portion of the year, making
warm woollen clothing essential. For centuries, locals have crafted practical woolen
garments like pattus and cholu, worn daily throughout the year. It’s intriguing to note that
unlike the vibrant shawls we see today, Kullu residents used to don woollen attire without the
bright colors and intricate designs.
The transformation that gave rise to the renowned shawls
we know today is a fascinating story in its own right.
In the early 19th century, there’s a belief that people from the Kinnaur/Bushaher kingdom
migrated to Kullu to escape persecution by the local ruler, introducing various designs to the
local woollen clothing. Another tale suggests that in the 1940s, Bushahris brought these
designs, previously used in their local woollen fabrics. The weavers from Bushehar were
well-versed in vibrant, geometrical patterns, which locals began weaving onto their Pattus or
Pattis. According to some beliefs, the art of weaving decorative motifs on wool garments
originated in the Kinnauri village of Shubnam, with the craft traveling to Kinnaur from
Tashkent, Uzbekistan, via China and Tibet. The influence of their location along this busy
trade route is evident in many traditional Kinnauri motifs, such as the diwar-e-chine (Great
Wall of China).
One could argue that Kinnauri weaving serves as the precursor to the distinctive style for
which Kullu is renowned. Although the weaving techniques in Kinnaur and Kullu are nearly
identical, the bright, almost fluorescent colors, and the bold, graphic style that have become
the hallmark of Kullu weaving are undeniably unique and distinguishable from the weaving
style in Kinnaur.
Interestingly, Devika Rani, renowned as the first female actress of Hindi Cinema, played a
significant role in shaping the present form and popularity of Kullu shawls.
Married to
Svetoslav Roerich, the son of the famous Russian painter Nicholas Roerich, who resided in
Naggar, Devika Rani settled in Naggar village with her husband. In 1942, during her visit to
Kullu, she approached a local weaver, Sheru Ram from Banontar village, to craft a shawl on
his pit loom.
Devika Rani's suggestion gave rise to the creation of the first full-length shawl (72” x 36”),
marking the commencement of commercial weaving of Kullu shawls. This ushered in their
distinctive geometric patterns and vibrant colours, establishing a trademark style for Kullu
shawls in the market.
As time progressed, key individuals such as Devi Prakash Sharma and Master weaver
Tanjenram Bhagat significantly contributed to the diversification and recognition of Kullu
shawls. Ved Ram Thakur, too, played a vital role in benefiting numerous families in the
valley.
Now, among other notable aspects, Kullu is undeniably renowned for its exquisite and cozy
shawls. These shawls have directly and indirectly transformed the lives of thousands.
A Himachali shawl is more than just a warm garment. Each piece embodies the contributions
of both biotic and abiotic components of the environment. It starts with the sheep that grows
its wool by grazing on Himalayan meadows, the water from icy rivers, and the air from the
lofty mountains nourishing the grass. Add to this the diligent work involved in turning wool
into fabric and then crafting that fabric into a shawl by a local Pahari artisan. This shawl
represents a commitment to supporting local and authentic products. It transcends being
merely a human creation; it's a harmonious collaboration between nature and humans,
crafted in the most sustainable manner. The Kullu Shawl is a story intricately woven with
threads of tradition and nature.
